Editor�s Note: This is a belated posting on the subject of the Ethiopian Millennium Celebration. The reason for posting it is to bring to our readers and visitors a different and interesting perspective, not so much on the celebration but on the evaluation offered by Paul Henze (an expert on Ethiopia and a long time friend of Ethiopians) on both questions of economic and political development underway in Ethiopia since 1991. I do not agree in general with the positive evaluation of Henze of the Administration of Meles Zenawi; however, I do not dispute the physical changes (buildings, paved highways, new hotels, et cetera) that are taking place in Ethiopia that Henze is referring to in his article.

Improvement of such nature, often confined to congested urban centers, especially in Addis Ababa, a legacy of Haile Selassie and the Mahel Sefaris is the very problem that had hindered equitably dispersed development around the nation resulting in the alienation of most Ethiopians and a source of tremendous resentment and rebellion against the Ethiopian Government and its leaders. Most of all I find it unfortunate that Henze in his report did not comment on the subjects of education, unemployment, and poverty in Ethiopia in general. It is also difficult to reconcile the rosy picture Henze painted with the absence of uncensored democratic political structure in Ethiopia.

Having said all that, I believe that on one important fact Henze should be highly commended for his reservation on the 2000 Algiers Agreement, which makes him a �brother� to me and all fair minded Ethiopians. At any rate, this is a piece worth reading. TH

ETHIOPIAN MILLENNIUM:  Trip Report

By Paul Henze

Introduction: 

I traveled again to Ethiopia in September 2007 at the invitation of the Millennium Council to take part in celebrations of the Ethiopian New Year 2000.  As a member of the Ethiopian Millennium Council I had gone to Addis Ababa the previous December to attend the initial meeting of this organization.  I had returned to the country in February 2007 to participate in an Ecotourism conference in Adwa sponsored by the Institute of Development Research of Addis Ababa University and meet with staff members working on plans for Millennium celebrations.  Afterwards, in March, I had traveled extensively in several regions of the country.  This most recent visit to Ethiopia was brief because of commitments I had made to participate in conferences in Georgia and Germany during October.  I regret that the pressure of other work kept me from completing this report until early December.

Millennium Celebrations: 

The country was in a festive mood for celebration of the beginning of the Ethiopian year 2000.[1]  Rains were unusually good this past season.  As I flew in over the plateau on EAL from Khartoum I looked down on vast expanses of green dotted with ponds and flowing streams.  Not only were the rains ample, but they continued through the end of September.  Coming from summer temperatures in the eastern US, I found Addis Ababa chilly and regretted I had not brought more warm clothing.  The city was decorated from one end to the other.  Flags of the regions flew from lampposts lining Bole Road into the city from the airport as well as along most of the main thoroughfares.  Colored lights sparkled along most of these routes at night.  Many commercial buildings had bright signs, posters, lights and banners. 

Maskal Square was a sea of posters, flags and lights.  Huge brightly painted billboards occupied the entire south side of the square behind a forest of national and regional flags.  The billboards celebrated Ethiopia's history, its role in recent African history and several of its world-famous athletes.  Large portraits of all the country's recent heads of state were included: Tewodros, Yohannes IV, Menelik, and yes--Haile Selassie and Mengistu!--and finally Meles Zenawi, Negaso Gidada and Girma Wolde Giorgis.  Traffic during both daytime and evenings was heavier than I had seen before.  The celebrations attracted large numbers of visitors, though fewer perhaps than had originally been expected.  This was a blessing because hotel accommodations were at a premium.  Fortunately I was initially provided by the Millennium Council with a room at the Ghion along with many other invited guests.  Later, I spent a few days at a friend's house and then moved to the busy, decorated Sheraton.  I was told that 24 hotels were under construction in Addis Ababa, though few of them were completed in time for millennium celebrations.  Since an upsurge in tourism is expected during the millennium year and beyond, they will eventually be assured of customers.

Ethiopian Year 2000 was welcomed the evening of 11 September at gala celebrations all over the capital and in all provincial cities throughout the country.  The major celebration in the capital took place in a huge "Millennium Hall" built on several hectares inside the Ring Road on the north side of Bole Road where it comes out of the airport.  This immense warehouse-like structure was reputed to hold 50,000 people.[2]  Celebrations there were accompanied by refreshments and an elaborate dinner for all the officials and dignitaries attending, including several African heads of state and other foreign dignitaries, the entire diplomatic corps, senior government officials and their families, and the country's leaders--President Girma, Prime Minister Meles, Foreign Minister Seyoum and others.  Though the official schedule fell a bit behind, music and entertainment followed dinner and everything culminated in uproarious enthusiasm at midnight.   

Like President Girma and many other senior officials, PM Meles and his wife, Azeb Mesfin, came to the affair in national dress.  They joined the dancing after dinner and speeches.  President Girma, had opened the speech-making, followed by Meles.  The Subsaharan Informer in its next weekend edition featured a photograph of the festivities on the front page with a headline, "Meles's spectacular millennium speech calls for Ethiopian Renaissance--PM's Popularity skyrockets."  Its lead article continued:

            ...Meles called for an Ethiopian renaissance in the 21st century to make Ethiopia's current reality a mere footnote in its long and glorious history.  He also remarked:

                        "Ethiopians need to be aware that there are decades of hard work and toil ...before [they] can confidently declare that the Ethiopian millennium has been realized.  It is with a sense of historical mission and total confidence in our capacity to overcome all challenges that I call upon you today... to join hands to rebuild an Ethiopia that we all could be proud of." 

            [the article continued:] The Subsaharan Informer conducted a survey soon after the major millennium bonanza on the night of 11 September and found that Meles's popularity has skyrocketed in the last 3 months.  The decision to release the top leadership of...CUD[3] and the statement he gave to the media on the day of the release greatly helped diffuse the 2-year old tension and stalemate in urban areas, questionnaires and interviews showed...  According to some, this statement marked a detachment from the Byzantine politics that has long characterized Ethiopia...  The premier's meeting with youth forums and associations was also another important factor that added to the popularity of Meles in the metropolis.  He was  not just prevailing over the meetings but was sharing his own youth experience, making jokes, providing advice and listening to what the youth had to say...

But was it all gaiety and joy?  Hardly.  It would not have been Ethiopia if it had been.  Before the celebrations there was apprehension that opposition groups or Eritrean agents would disrupt them by acts of terrorism.  Extensive precautions were taken to protect all the celebrations.  To enter the Millennium Hall everyone needed an invitation and had to pass through airport-type security barriers.  These have long been common in major hotels in Addis Ababa but it was easy to sense that police were very much on the alert during the final week of the old year.  There was little press criticism of the millennium--only some questioning of the expense involved[4].  Rumors circulated,of course, that recently released CUD(Kinejit) supporters were plotting to instigate violence.  --  I heard of no incidents at all.  On the other hand, I heard disparaging remarks about the celebrations from a few professionals and businessmen.  The bitter comments of one of them ran this way, e.g.:

            This whole millennium business is just an effort by the EPRDF to blow its horn and cover up their failure to get serious development under way.  I am not taking any part in it.  This is an oppressive government that would really like to operate a police state.  They are trying to cover up the real problems of the country.  They are bogged down in Somalia and wasting the country's resources there.  They are letting Isaias Afewerki get away with undermining the country's interests instead of doing something serious to get rid of him.   

Among some academics I heard milder skepticism about the wisdom of highlighting the millennium, but on the whole it seemed to me that the great majority of the population both welcomed and enjoyed the celebrations; many saw the year 2000 as a time for new effort and new initiatives.  Tour operators were enthusiastic about the likelihood of expanded tourism.  Many businessmen announced plans for expansion of operations during the millennium year.  The government announced concessions to foreign investors and domestic investors for new projects in fields such as biofuels, pharmaceutical production and expansion of food industry.  Only time can tell how much response the President's and Prime Minister's calls for an "Ethiopian Renaissance" will generate.  Ethiopia has made great progress in overcoming the debilitation it suffered during the Derg years and in most respects has regained the level of development it had reached by 1974 and added a great deal of new infrastructure.  But it also has 50% more people, so it cannot afford to lose time...

The economy: 

Evidence of growing prosperity strikes the visitor on all sides in Addis Ababa.  There is a great deal of new housing under construction.  Whole new residential areas have grown up in recent years on the east side of the city as well as on the south where the Ring Road has made them accessible.  Informal shopping centers have developed within most of the new residential areas.  I have already remarked on the large number of hotels under construction.  There are at least as many new restaurants and simpler megeb betoch.  Small shops continue to proliferate.  They are evidence of small-scale capitalism that provides employment for large numbers of people.  Some modest shops ostentatiously call themselves "supermarkets", but there are also many genuine supermarkets which are increasingly patronized by the growing Ethiopian middle class as well as diplomats and other foreigners.  Famous old Bambis has many competitors.  New office buildings are a frequent sight in several areas of the city.  Al-Amoudi's striking "skyscraper" that overlooks the intersection of Debre Zeit Road and Maskal Square is now completed with 6 stories occupied by the head offices of the Dashen Bank.  Traffic is increasing continually and the municipality is struggling to complete and extend major roads.  Side streets in much of the capital are still in need of repair and maintenance. 

Good rains this season give promise of an excellent harvest in most parts of the country, but so far abundance of basic produce in markets has not resulted in lower prices.  Inflation is said to be running at a rate of 5-10% annually and the government has begun to show concern and take steps to make basic foods available to the most needy people in the population. 

I was struck during my travels earlier in the year by the amount of  development which has been taking place in provincial capitals and smaller towns throughout the country.  The government announced during millennium celebrations that the country's rate of growth has reached 10% annually and promises to be sustained at that level for the next few years.  Though some observers doubt this figure, it is substantiated by the most recent report of the Economist Intelligence Unit which rates the past four years (2003-4 through 2007-7) at 11.9%, 10.5%, 9.6% and 9.4% respectively.  The same report rates exports during the years 2004 through 2006 at US$678, 917 and l,025 million.  Coffee exports have risen steadily and are expected to rise further this year but coffee no longer makes up the bulk of the country's exports.  Ethiopia is now challenging Kenya for first place in flower-growing and export.  Several newly developing crops promise substantial gains in the future: palm oil, several kinds of oil-seeds, castor beans.  The usual traditional exports are also growing.  Ethiopia is said to be on its way to meeting Millennium Challenge goals.

The exchange rate of the birr was nearing 9/$1 during my visit and has since reached that level.  The birr remains stable but the largest note in circulation is still only a hundred birr.  An expanding economy needs larger denominations.  Credit cards are at last beginning to be used.  Use needs to expand much farther to meet the needs of expanded tourism as well as for regular business purposes.

Ecotourism Conference Follow-up

Visiting Dr. Mulugeta Fesseha, Director of the Institute of Development Research (IDR) at Addis Ababa University (AAU), I was happy to find that his group has been working with the Municipality at Adwa to implement the recommendations of last February's Ecotourism conference on development of the Adwa Battlefield to make this major historic site understandable and attractive for both Ethiopian and foreign visitors.  Work done on the Adwa battlefield will serve as a model and inspiration for development of other Ethiopian areas with ecotourism potential.  Shamabooks' forthcoming Vertical Ethiopia (mentioned below) will also be useful in calling attention to the rich opportunities for trekkers and climbers the Mountains of Adwa and a great many other Ethiopian mountains and mountainous regions have to offer.

The excellent work done recently on the archaeological sites of Melka Kunture, easily accessible from Addis Ababa (see below) is another example of development beneficial for tourism which at the same time serves important educational purposes. 

Publishing: 

The first volume of my 2-volume reportage on Ethiopia in Mengistu's Final Years. covering the years 1984-1988 and subtitled The Derg in Decline, had finally been released from customs[5] and put on sale in Shama's seven BookWorld outlets in the capital before I arrived.  It was selling briskly.  Shama decided to have the second volume, To the Last Bullet, printed in Ethiopia.  It came off the press during my visit and went on sale immediately.  I hear that it has been selling even more rapidly than the first, since it covers the years 1989 through the 1991 flight of Mengistu and the triumph of the guerrilla forces.  Meanwhile Shama's reprint of Ethiopian Journeys has sold out.  I worked with Shama on a new printing (with updated introduction and bibliography) during this visit as well as on a new edition of Layers of Time, updated to 2007.  I also agreed to write an expanded introduction for Shama to a book on mountain climbing, entitled Vertical Ethiopia, which I completed on return to the States.  This book is now in press and scheduled for publication in early 2008.

I have been working since last year on another book for Shama to be called Mountains and Monasteries,  It will include descriptions of a large portion of my mountain travels and monastery visits in Ethiopia during the past 40 years.  In addition, Ian Campbell and I proposed a further book to Shama during this visit, to deal only with Shoa and tentatively called Journeys in Shoa.  We hope to complete it during the coming year.  It will include much of the material I originally planned to include in a sequel to Ethiopian Journeys plus Ian's researches in the escarpment region.

Somalia and Eritrea

The excitement of Millennium celebrations did not obscure the serious problems Ethiopia faces in Somalia and with Eritrea.  The two have actually become linked, for Isaias Afewerki has been trying to combine Somali Islamists with anti-EPRDF groups, such as the Oromo Liberation Front, to build an anti-Ethiopian alliance under his control.  Asmara has also been successful in getting the international press to hype up the alleged danger of a new "border" war supposedly being planned by Ethiopia.  Eritrean support for the "Ogaden National Liberation Front" (ONLF) has created an exaggerated impression of this group's importance.  --  Ethiopia encouraged a meeting of anti-EPLF Eritrean groups while I was there.  Unfortunately they remain divided and without dynamic leadership, so the  internal deterioration of Eritrea continues.  Through all the overheated rhetoric about Eritrea and Somalia only a few facts stand out as a real measure of the seriousness of these situations:

            *The UN was ineffective in dealing with Isaias Aferwerki's reoccupation of the Temporary Security Zone along the border and failed to compel Eritrea to lift restrictions on UNMEE operations.  Ethiopia has complied fully with UNMEE requirements, but it is not obvious that UNMEE continues to serve any purpose at all. 

            *Increasing numbers of Eritreans, both civilians and soldiers, have been seeking asylum in Ethiopia and reportedly even more have been crossing into Sudan.  Hundreds are being accommodated in camps in northern Ethiopia, but a portion of those who escape from Isaias Afewerki's oppressive regime simply melt into Ethiopian life without ever being officially counted.

            *Despite its efforts to bolster the Transitional Federal Government in Somalia and enforce order in Mogadishu and central regions of the country, Ethiopia faces a daunting problem and has received little other than words from the AU or the UN in the way of help.[6]

            *Elements associated with the ONLF have succeed in carrying out terrorist attacks in parts of Ethiopia's Somali state which have naturally provoked Ethiopian response, the nature of which has been distorted by sensational press reporting.  Nevertheless normal life has been disrupted and conditions of existence for the largely nomadic population exacerbated.

            *Though de facto independent Somaliland (i.e. the northernmost area of Somalia) remains unrecognized internationally, its government operates a far more open society and democratizing political system than has ever existed in independent Eritrea.  Ethiopia's consistent, quiet support of Somaliland has been mutually beneficial and points the way toward eventual international diplomatic recognition.

I concluded that Isaias's persistent flaunting of the obligations he undertook in the Algiers agreements would justify Ethiopia's withdrawal from all the arrangements it entered into as a result, including the activities of the "Border Commission".[7]  I expressed this judgment to senior Ethiopian officials during my discussions with them but was not surprised that they chose for the time being not to agree.  They wish to maintain their reputation for honorable international behavior.  Meanwhile it is to be hoped that international initiative may eventually relieve Ethiopia of sole responsibility for dealing with Somalia.

Politics

While the release and pardon of imprisoned CUD leaders, which had occurred a short time before my visit, resulted in a more relaxed atmosphere at Millennium time, I was not impressed by the conduct of many of these leaders.  While I was in Ethiopia some of them were preparing to go to Washington to work with supporters among the diaspora to encourage support for HR 2003, a cleverly deceptive piece of legislation that would allegedly encourage democracy in Ethiopia.  Its main purpose is to force the US Government to favor CUD.  This is essentially a continuation of the course like-minded opposition types oriented toward Amhara-centrist ideology have been following since the early 1990s, when they started generating pressure on the EPRDF from abroad--especially from the US--to share power with them while refraining from grass-roots efforts to develop a political capacity in Ethiopia, where genuine democratic politics should be played out.  Such behavior by major opposition groups in Ethiopia during the 1990s and into the 21st century delayed progress toward democratization because opposition groups failed to formulate economic and social policies that were a realistic alternative to those being implemented by the EPRDF.

In the run-up to the 2005 parliamentary elections the parties that formed CUD's Kinejit coalition adopted demagogic propaganda tactics which took the overconfident EPRDF by surprise.  They accused it of failing to advance education, health-care and deal with unemployment, among other shortcomings though its accomplishments in all these fields have been impressive.  This propaganda produced a substantial anti-EPRDF vote in urban areas.  Assisted by EU-chief election observer, Ana Gomes, CUD leaders claimed nationwide victory even before election results were in and then alleged massive fraud in vote counting (claims that have never been substantiated).  The inner workings of Kinejit during and after the 2005 elections remain obscure, but there is evidence that some neo-Dergists in the coalition recklessly encouraged violence.  Violence provoked counter-violence by the authorities.  The government's efforts to restore order included imprisonment of CUD leaders and activists in several parts of the country.  This unfortunate experience was a setback for democratization from which Ethiopia has only recently begun to recover.

Following my September visit, a group of CUD leaders spent several weeks in the US encouraging diaspora supporters and urging passage of HR 2003.[8]  At the same time, even before I left Ethiopia, broad cracks had appeared in the CUD organization with leaders accusing each other of malfeasance of various kinds and dedicated followers forming factions while others appeared to be dropping away.  This process continued among CUD leaders while they were in the States.  CUD, when formed for the 2005 elections was a loose "federation" of disparate elements and was infiltrated by neo-Dergists.  It does not appear to have the capacity to evolve into a genuine democratic party.

Meanwhile other political opposition groups have adopted more realistic and positive courses of action and have been showing a sense of responsibility in parliament and in communicating with the public.  Leaders such as Beyene Petros and Bulcha Demeksa realize that real democracy has to evolve in Ethiopia itself and cannot be forced by diaspora politicking in Washington DC.  Four parties have now met requirements for participation in forthcoming local elections.  These include a new party headed by Gebru Asrat, governor of Tigray dismissed in 2002.

There are many features of Ethiopian society and tradition that favor development of participatory democracy.  Expectations of rapid democratization after the fall of the Derg were unrealistic.  Getting a population to adopt and maintain habits of tolerant and respectful political behavior is difficult in the modern era of mass-media saturation even in old, well-established political systems, as recent rancorous electoral campaigns in France have shown and as the present long drawn-out American presidential campaign process is demonstrating.  EPRDF leaders also need to learn to adjust to open democratic procedures.  Most of the positive features of Ethiopian traditional life have had little opportunity to come to the fore in the rancorous atmosphere that developed as a result of the 2005 elections.  Meles Zenawi has declared in several interviews during this past year that he has no intention of attempting to remain as prime minister after the 2010  parliamentary elections.  A good deal of further political evolution needs to take place to enable both the EPRDF and opposition groups to prepare to enter into a serious electoral process that could result in new leadership. 

One--but only one--of the tests of democracy is a situation where leaders can leave power and remain in their country leading normal lives out of power.  Few African countries have passed this test but some ex-communist countries now have.  It is to be hoped that Ethiopia may do so in 2010.

Berlin Meeting

At the end of October while I was in Berlin for the annual conference of Orbis Aethiopicus, I was invited by Ambassador Kassahun Ayele (formerly in Washington) to come to the Ethiopian Embassy to meet a delegation of 15 Ethiopian regional government officials who had come to Germany under the auspices of the German aid program to consult with German technology organizations and educational institutions.  I found it exciting to meet these serious and energetic men who included several deputy governors of regional states and other officials concerned with economic development and expansion of practical education.  I was impressed with the dedication of all of them to the task of improving the scope and effectiveness of development programs in their regions.  Men such as these did not seem to be much affected by the debates of politicians.  They exhibited a keen sense of responsibility to the people of their regions and were eager to take ideas and knowledge back to Ethiopia that would advance economic and social development.  They told me about new infrastructure projects in several of their areas.  It was clear that they would return to expand opportunities for their people to improve their lives.  Talking to them was exciting, a very different kind of experience from debating with diaspora critics of the Ethiopian scene.

Travel:

My old friend, Girma Fisseha from Munich Ethnographic Museum, had been in Ethiopia for several weeks when I arrived, attempting to repossess his former house.  He had occupied himself by exploring Addis Ababa from end to end, making a photographic record of historic buildings and modern life in the city.  Always interested in everything, Girma welcomed the opportunity to accompany me on the only brief trip I managed outside the capital: a tour into Gurageland, across to Lake Zway and back up the Rift Valley.  The journey included the rock church at Adadi Maryam, two significant archaeological sites, Melka Kunture and Tiya, and a leisurely drive across the region between Butajira and Zway where we stopped to visit Mesken Gurage villages and, just before Zway Ketema, came upon a colorful new Oromo cemetery with impressive painted tombs.  We returned to Addis Ababa through the Mojo-Akaki-Kalitti corridor, which has become an almost continuous strip of light-industrial and commercial development.  I conclude with notes I made of this trip:

            Our day could be characterized as a tour around Zuqualla, for the great mountain was to our south as we started, to our east as we drove as far as Butajira, to our west as we came up from Zway in the evening, slowly fading off to the southwest as we approached Mojo.  The countryside was as green as I have ever seen it.  Corn is growing tall and grainfields look full.  Trees and bushes are in full vigorous leaf.  While we saw no evidence in this region of the hundreds of thousands of trees that are supposed to have been planted to celebrate the millennium, we saw no signs of recent tree-cutting anywhere.  We saw great numbers of huge flower farms...

            Views of the plain to the south of Wachacha were in various shades of green.  The village at the Awash bridge is now called Awash Melka.  We stopped and walked back to the bridge to look at the roaring brown river filling the entire gorge and then turned onto the route to Melka Kunture, a muddy track through a series of puddles... but solid underneath.

            Girma had never seen Melka Kunture but developed a keen interest in the site as we walked through the line of roomy tukuls that now make up the museum.  An intelligent young attendant was eager to be helpful to us, proudly displayed his archaeological article collection and asked us to sign his guestbook...  Castings of skulls and even a whole skeleton of people who had lived along the Awash a million or more years ago were fascinating.  --  On then to the underground church at Adadi Maryam over a much longer, more used road which passes a Sunday market on the way to the church...  Rains had been heavy and the road was a river of mud.  We began slipping down the hillside.  Our driver had to exercise all his skill to get us up and onto the track again.  Girma had never visited this church before.  He expected something grand like those in the north.  As a ferenji I had to pay B30 for the visit, but we did not go inside because we did not want to take off our shoes and get our socks mud-soaked.  But I got some good photographs of stairs and walls with green moss lining the pit around the church.  The attendant let us peer inside.  Girma was disappointed that they have no manuscripts.

            We drove on toward Tiya.  About 5 km. north of Tiya at a place called Haro, Girma noticed a stone figure beside the roadside under a huge old acacia.  Behind it was a large house compound inside a brush fence.  Girma noticed a skull on the fence and suspected it was the compound of a hunter.  We walked over to look at the skull close-up and looked in the gate.  Seeing us, people came out.  We were greeted by Ato Hailu Kebede, grand old man of the compound who was happy to talk.  93 years old with 20 children and more grandchildren than he could remember, he could not recall how many wives he had had!  The Derg took 3 of his sons, he said; two came back and one is still missing.  Yes, he had been a hunter.  His grandfather had been brought from Wollo to settle here to hunt elephants.  His father died during the Italian occupation.  He himself was still active.  The thatched houses in the compound (there were 6-8) were occupied by members of his family some of whom came to be introduced.  Ato Hailu said he was building a new house--he pointed to scaffolding of a rectangular building with tin roof and said it was for his old age.  The compound was partly paved with flat stones.  He said the figure near the road was like ones that are common throughout the area.  He offered to take us to see some behind his compound, but there was water standing in the grass and our feet were already wet, so we thanked him.  Girma had seen a wooden cross on the other side of the road not far from where we parked the car and asked me to photograph it.  Ato Hailu came with us and pointed to a sign on the cross-pole: "Aboye Abuna Gebre Manfas Qiddus", and an arrow pointing down a slope toward a thatched church in a grove perhaps 300 m. away.  Hailu said it was their church, but many of the old people in the area had difficulty walking to it, so they came simply to pray at the cross, which was the equivalent of attending qedasse at the church.

            Behind to the east we could see the now clear outline of Zuqualla as we drove on to Tiya.  Abo is alleged to have come from Egypt and lived for 600 years atop the mountain.  I was reminded of research Ian Campbell had been telling me about which leads him to believe that Abo--Abuna Gebre Manfas Qiddus--may actually have been a French crusader who found his way to Ethiopia in the 13th century where he transformed himself into a major religious figure.[9] 

            Tiya is situated on the boundary between Oromia and the Southern Peoples' State.  Like most country towns, it has grown in the last few years but as the site of a World Heritage monument the stela park needs development and would benefit from a visitor center and a museum.  The site is under the jurisdiction of the Cultural Bureau of the Southern People's state.  The sole attendant at the site who said he had worked with French archaeologists told us that one of them still comes every year to examine stelae in the area.  He confirmed what Ato Hailu Kebede had told us--stelae are scattered across this whole region.  The French archaeologist is recording all the sites.  The attendant wrote the names of the nearest ones in my notebook.  We spent relatively little time examining the stelae field for it was filled with standing water.  I had photographed most of them 2 years ago. 

            At Butajira, 130 km. from Addis Ababa, we drove to the southern end of the town to enquire about the condition of the road that goes west over the Gurage highlands to Emdeber.  I had hoped to travel it again, but we were told it was in poor repair.  I was impressed by the extent Butajira has grown from the time I first visited it in 1969 when its main feature was a huge market area that filled with people on Fridays.  Solid new buildings line the broad new main street and there are many shops.  We had coffee at a kekbet and turned back and took the road east toward Zway.  Muddy but well traveled, it led through an area called Mesken, where Christian and Muslim Gurage compounds succeed each other.  The religion of their occupants is indicated by roof ornaments on the classic thatched Gurage tukuls.  People of both religions ornament the front of their houses with paintings in earth colors.  We stopped repeatedly to photograph and talk to people in their compounds, for Girma was eager to learn about local customs.  A plate hanging on a gate indicates that the house offers food, a cup on a stick, talla, a bottle hanging on a bush, katikala.  People had plenty to eat and said they were enjoying a good harvest.  As we drove on we passed orange- and blue-awninged garis and frequent donkeys carrying bags of grain to a busy Sunday market farther east.

            Nearing Zway Ketema, we spotted two Oromo cemeteries a short distance north of the road with colorfully painted monuments.  Boys who came to meet us when we walked over to them said the cemeteries had been established less than two years ago.  The most impressive monuments, flanked by brightly painted statues of lions, honored traditional elders who had lived into their 80s.  A younger man, apparently a schoolteacher, was buried under a monument topped by a cross.  A few years ago, farther south, I had learned from a traditional Oromo tomb painter that Wahhabis were discouraging painted tombs and his "business" was declining.  There was no evidence of Wahhabi influence here.

            Zway Ketema was busy with traffic and looked prosperous.  From there smooth asphalt led us north past familiar Rift Valley scenes.  To our west Zuqualla was sharply outlined against the evening sky.  The Awash had flooded large areas and the Koka Lake was as high as I have ever seen it.  Before Debre Zeit we stopped at a large new  hotel along the roadside and were welcomed by the owner, Ato Roba Berhanu, who owns a hotel of the same name--Aros--in Addis Ababa.  He took us on a tour of the place, opened only 2-1/2 months ago.  Everything was up to modern standards.  A double room costs $50 per night.  The dining room was busy.  We had an excellent dinner rapidly served...  Then back to Addis Ababa in late Sunday-evening traffic through the Mojo-Akaki-Kalitti corridor lined with signs of light-industrial and commercial establishments.

Conclusion:

Millennium celebrations took place in a relaxed and enthusiastic atmosphere.  They underscored the progress that Ethiopia has made in the past 16 years.  At the same time leaders emphasized the challenges on the road ahead and the population recognizes and accepts them.  Continuing--and hopefully accelerating--economic and social progress can be expected.  Difficult problems with Somalia and Eritrea remain.  Ethiopia has regained its traditional status as one of Africa's most responsible countries.  Its influence extends beyond Africa into the Middle East.  It stands high in its relationship not only with the United States and the European Union, but also with China and India. 

Paul Henze

December, 2007